Romancing the mountains, discovering gems

One of the four waterfalls in Ng Tung Chai along the trail up Tai Mo Shan, the highest peak in Hong Kong.

By Vir B. Lumicao

Hiking around Hong Kong is carried out most actively by various groups and individuals this time of the year to seize on the city’s mild winter, including the recent Lunar New Year break, to explore nature.

This writer has done at least eight hikes, with groups or solo, since December as the cool and overcast weather has made the period ideal for the strenuous outdoor activity.

Surprises abound along the trails, such as the alluring red leaves of the Sweet Gum Woods in Tai Tong Shan that attracted thousands of hikers to Tai Lam, Yuen Long.

There were no more than 200 sweet gum trees along that 350-meter section of of the road. But the leaves turning amber in late November to deep red between mid-December and early January cast a magical spell on patient hikers who trod uphill from Tai Tong.

The arboreal color display is not exclusive to Tai Tong.

In a one-on-one hike with a friend to Sharp Peak in Sai Kung on a Saturday before the Lunar New Year, we retraced a route along MacLehose Trail from Pak Tam Au to one of Hong Kong’s most hazardous peaks.

On the descent towards the abandoned 200-year-old-plus Chek Keng Hau, we espied a virtual yellow forest of bushes no taller than 15 feet spread over about four hectares of flat, gravel-strewn land on the delta of a stream next to the former fishing village.

The species was unnamed, so, I tried looking it up in Google and the Hong Kong Herbarium website these past few days, but had no luck.

Wisdom Path offers spiritual relief after a strenuous climb to the 934-meter-tall Lantau Peak. 

One way of finding out what species made up the yellow forest is to revisit the spot in late spring or early summer to identify it taxonomically through its leaf and flowers, fruits, or pods. Until then the plant species of the yellow forest will remain a mystery.

Equally awesome as the red or yellow leaf spectacles are the tiered waterfalls on a steep side of Tai Mo Shan, Hong Kong’s tallest mountain at 957 meters, which a hiker can reach from the Ng Tung Chai section of the MacLehose Trail.

The steep narrow path of rock slabs, gravel and red soil winds upward beside the four waterfalls and cuts through some of the mountain’s old hardwood forests before stretching out on the moderately sloping, brushy upper reaches of Tai Mo Shan.



The waterfalls and their rocky basins provide magnificent backdrops for photo-taking or plain pit stops for snacks and drinks before continuing the assault on the peak.

A hike on Hong Kong’s hills and mountains is actually a feast for nature lovers and the serious naturalist. The ranges offer myriad of flora and fauna species that one would not expect to see in a cosmopolitan city like Hong Kong.



People should thank the preservation of these biological gems in the city’s ecosystem.

Where gathering plants or hunting wild animals is an offense, it is common for hikers to encounter wild boars, golden macaques, wide varieties of birds and rare flowers, as well as delicately beautiful minnows in streams along the trails.

Atop the treacherous Sharp Peak, we saw dwarf Asian oaks with bright red leaves growing in crevices, as if they were danger markers. We saw the same species on the higher reaches of Mt Parker and farther southeast atop the Twin Peaks.



On one of our hikes with friends on Lion Rock Country Park, we came across a wild boar that went about looking for food as it crossed our path. Nearby was the Amah Rock, where we witnessed a lone monkey snatching the handbag of a local woman and pulling out a bag of three bananas. It then ran off to a rock ledge where it feasted on its loot in front of us.

My 9-year-old granddaughter had her first encounter with the porcine trekkers when we saw a mother and its young on the slopes of Mount Parker standing alert under the trees as hikers took photos of the animals. 



On Lantau Peak, where I and a handful of friends went for a hike recently, I came upon a rare, tiny jewel of Hong Kong’s ecosystem, a lone pink blossom, near the cloud-shrouded top of the city’s second-highest mountain. Its brilliant color was a perfect contrast to the moist brown and green grass mantle of the slope.

There could have been more rare gems to find on that steep peak overlooking Ngong Ping and Shek Pik reservoir, but the thick veil of wind-blown fog covered everything beyond 20 meters as if it were a barrier between heaven and earth.

Hong Kong’s Global Geopark: Sai Kung’s little known treasure

Cave cuts through to the other side of the island.

By Daisy CL Mandap

Hundreds of millions of years ago, a number of underwater volcanoes erupted so fiercely it totally changed the landscape in this sleepy seaside part of Hong Kong. The cataclysmic event left priceless reminders that sadly, have been left unnoticed by many, including those who have practically spent their whole life in this busy, noisy city.

Pineapple bun island, so named because of rocks that resemble pineapple buns.

These relics from that distant past when dinosaurs still roamed the earth, are now known as Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark, most of which are scattered across Sai Kung, with just a small, eerie patch located on Tai Po’s shores.

The gigantic outcrops that form a 150-km swathe on Sai Kung’s shores are said to have been the result of the violent eruptions that occurred some 140 million years ago. First time visitors will surely be awed by the eerie ridges that formed naturally on the rock deposits, many of which resemble Hong Kong’s skyline today. It’s as if the city’s transformation into a world-class city with towering skyscrapers was foretold eons ago.



Even more impressive is the vastness of the geopark. On a sailboat, it takes all of three hours to tour all the islands with the impressive hexagonal columns that form this unique cultural heritage.

An alternative way is to take one of the tour boats that regularly ply the area and carry up to 20 people, for which each passenger is charged about $250. However, there are sites that cannot be reached by these bigger boats because of rough waters.



There are also one-hour trips offered by touts at Sai Kung pier for just $50, but as can be imagined, the tour covers only a fraction of the wondrous site.

Part of that short tour should include the famous Pineapple Bun island, where tourists can disembark to check out the gigantic sponge-like rocks that are strewn about. The shape and indentations on most of these rocks account for the island’s name.

According to Hong Kong Geopark’s website, there are 140 UNESCO global geoparks spread across 38 countries, and 37 of them are located in China. These wonders of nature include the famous Ha Long Bay in Vietnam and the Karst Mountains in Yangshuo, Guangdong Province, both of which predate Sai Kung’s rock ridges.



Hong Kong’s Geopark was first listed with UNESCO as part of China’s National Geoparks in 2009, but was renamed in 2015 as Hong Kong’s own.

According to its own website, the Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark comprises two geological regions within a unified boundary: the hexagonal rock columns in Sai Kung and the sedimentary rocks formed over different geologic periods in northeast New Territories. To reach this site where the ancient volcanic rocks are found, however, one still has to set off from Sai Kung and walk for about an hour to reach the seashore which is technically already part of Tai Po, New Territories.




What sets Hong Kong’s Geopark apart from most of the UNESCO heritage sites is the relative ease with which visitors can behold them. Sai Kung is an easy 30-minute trip from North Point MTR station. Just hop on the Tseung Kwan O line and get off at Hanghau station. From there, take the green 101M minibus which will take you all the way to Sai Kung pier.

There, you can either book your own private boat for the tour, or reserve seats in one of the Geopark tour boats for a glorious three-hour trip.



During the busy months or weekends, it might be best to book your boat beforehand. If you do, best to contact Angus Yacht International, as they have several boats to choose from, including pleasure crafts. As longtime Sai Kung residents, the couple who owns the fleet of boats is also one of the best providers for this service. Send a message to their Facebook page or contact telephone number 93694017.

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Kulay Pasko ang Sweet Gum Woods sa Tai Tong

Ang kakaibang tanawin sa Tai Tong

Ni Marites Palma

Kung inaakala ninyo na ang mga puno na nagpapalit ng dahon mula luntian, dilaw, hanggang pula ay makikita lang sa mga bansa na nakakaranas ng matinding taglamig o snow katulad ng Canada, Japan o Amerika, nagkakamali kayo.

Dito sa Hong Kong ay may isang lugar din na kakikitaan ng ganitong klase ng puno, ang sweet gum, Habang ang mga nakapaligid na punongkahoy ay nanatiling kulay luntian ang mga dahon, kapansin-pansin ang matingkad na kulay  ng mga puno na ito.

Parang “magic”, sabi nga ng mga nakakita na nito.

Sa bansang Japan at Canada, nakagawian na ng mga turista na dayuhin ang mga lugar kung saan makikita ang ganitong kakaibang tanawin kapag papalapit na ang winter, o dili kaya ay patapos na.

Sa Hong Kong, bibihira pa ang nakakaalam na may ganitong mala-engkantong lugar kung saan maaaring magkuhanan ng litrato na siguradong hahangaan ng mga makakakita. Disyembre ang pinakamagandang panahon para bumisita dito.

Disyembre ang pinakamagandang panahon para bumisita sa Sweet Gum Woods

Hindi na kailangang lumayo pa para marating ang lugar na ito na tinaguriang Sweet Gum Woods, na nasa Tai Tong sa distrito ng Yuen Long.

Sumakay lamang ng West Rail Line patungong Long Ping Station, at lumabas sa exit B2. Hanapin ang himpilan ng Bus K66, na siyang dapat mong sakyan para marating ang Tai Tong Shan Road (sabihin sa driver na dito kayo bababa para makasiguro, pero ito ang pangalawa sa panghuling babaan). Pagdating sa Tai Tong Shan Road, maglakad pataas ng mga isa hanggang isa’t kalahating oras, at mararating na ang Sweet Gum Woods.

Dilaw at pula ang mga dahon ng punong sweet gum

Sa kasalukuyang panahon na nagkukulay pula ang mga dahon ng punong ito, ang bus K66 ay may biyaheng diretso mula sa Long Ping MTR hanggang Tai Tong Shan Road tuwing Linggo at araw ng piyesta opisyal. Mas malapit din ng may kalahating kilometro ang lugar na bababaan.

Tumatakbo ang bus na ito tuwing ika-15 minuto mula 10:30 ng umaga hanggang ika-4 ng hapon papuntang  Tai Tong, at ang pabalik naman sa Long Ping station ay mag-uumpisa mula ala una hanggang ika-pito ng hapon.

Kung marami kayong magkakasama, mas maigi na sumakay na lang ng green taxi mula sa Yuen Long MTR diretso sa Tai Lam Country Park kung saan nagkukumpulan ang mga puno ng sweet gum. Aabot ng mga $60 ang biyahe, na tatagal ng ilang minuto lang.

Dahil ang Hong Kong ay kabilang sa mga lugar na sub-tropical ang klima, karamihan ng mga puno dito ay naglalagas lang ang dahon bago mag winter, nguni’t hindi nagpapalit ang kulay. Bukod tanging ang puno ng sweet gum lang na madalas na ihalintulad sa maple tree ng Canada ang nagkukulay ng matingkad na pula bago tuluyang nalalagas ang mga dahon.

Ang mga dahon ng puno ng sweet gum  ay nagsisimulang magbago sa buwan ng Nobyembre at nalalagas sa Enero, pero sa Disyembre, mula sa kalagitnaan hanggang sa katapusan, makikita na mapulang mapula na ang mga dahon nito.

Bakit nagbabago ang mga kulay nito?

Ayon sa paliwanag ng mga siyentipiko, ang mga dahon kasi nito ay naglalaman ng ibat ibang klase ng pigment o kulay: ang chlorophyll na nagbibigay ng kulay na luntian, ang  carotenoids para sa dilaw na kulay, at anthocyanin para sa pulang kulay. Sa pagbabago ng klima ang mga dahon ay natutuyo at nalalamigan kaya namamatay ang chlorophyll at naiiwan ang kulay na dilaw at pula ng mga ito.

Sa mga nagnanais na makakita ng kakaibang tanawin sa Hong Kong sa buwan ng Kapaskuhan, magpunta na sa Sweet Gum Woods, at siguradong kakainggatan ng inyong mga kaibigan at kaanak ang mga litrato ninyo na kuha dito.

Ang ‘Walled Village’ sa Shatin

Ni Marites Palma

Kakaiba ang mararamdaman kapag nasilayan sa unang pagkakataon ang lugar na ito sa Shatin na may 178 taon nang nakatayo. Ito ang Tsang Tai Uk o Big House of Tsangs, na kilala rin sa pangalang Shan Ha Wai o “Walled Village at the Mountain’s Foot.”

Isa sa mga pasukan sa Tsang Tai Uk 

Kitang kita talaga ang kalumaan ng gusaling ito na naitayo pa noong 1840s ng isang mayamang negosyante ng batong granite na mula sa pamilya Tsang. Bagamat ilang siglo na itong nakatayo ay maayos pa rin ang istraktura. Sa ngayon ay ito na lang ang nakatayong Hakka walled village sa buong Hong Kong.

Hugis parihaba ang istraktura at may tatlong hanay ng kabahayan na nababakuran ng granite at ang bawat poste ay gawa sa isang buong piraso ng troso. May tatlong palapag ang bawat sulok nito na nagsisilbing tore kung saan maaaring magmatyag sa buong paligid. May mga butas sa makapal na pader kung saan inuumang ang mga mahahabang baril noong unang panahon, at malayang pinapapaputok kung may bantang panganib.

Mula sa hilagang bakod ay may tatlong hugis-arkong pasukan, samantalang ang opisyal na lagusan ay nasa gitnang bahagi. Ito ang nagsisilbing daanan papunta sa ancestral hall kung saan ginaganap ang mga pagtitipon at iba’t ibang tradisyunal na seremonyas ng kanilang angkan.

Sa pagsilip sa madilim at makipot na lagusan ay hindi maiiwasang maisip ang kung ilang daan katao na ang pumasok doon, at ngayon ay matagal ng wala dito sa mundong ating ginagalawan. Maari ding sumagi sa isip na may kababalaghan na makita dahil ang mga dingding ng gusali ay naaagnas na sa kalumaan. May mga parte din namang inayos na pero mas marami pa rin yung mga natirang haligi na nilumot na sa pagdaan ng mga taon.

Sa harapan ng unang gusali ay isang mahabang courtyard o lakaran kung saan ibinibilad ng angkan sa araw ang kanilang mga produkto noong unang panahon. Ngayon ay mga labadang pinapatuyo na lang ang makikita dito.

Ang mga kabahayan dito ay pinagdugtong-dugtong sa pamamagitan ng mga maliliit na lagusan at courtyard o pahingahan. Ang mga bisita ay pinapayagang makapasok sa unang courtyard at ancestral hall lang, at hindi sa iba pang mga gusali na patuloy na tinutuluyan ng mga bagong miyembro ng angkan.

Sa bungad at pinakadulo ng unang courtyard ay matatagpuan ang dalawang balon na kinukuhanan ng tubig noong panahon ng pagkubkob, pero sa ngayon ay nagsisilbing alaala na lamang ng bukal na bumuhay sa mga ninuno ng angkan.

Sa tibay ng mga gusali dito ay parang walang anuman na dumadaan ang mga bagyo o delubyo, katulad ng T10 na si Mangkhut noong nakaraang buwan. Inabot man ito ng baha dahil sa umapaw na ilog ng Shing Mun River ay hindi naman natinag man lang. Patuloy pa rin itong nagsisilbing tirahan ng mga pinakabagong henerasyon ng pamilya Tsang.

Ang isa pang nakakatawag-pansin ay ang mga butas na kuwadrado sa mabibigat at malalaking pintuan ng mga bahay, kung saan ipinapasok ang mga pangharang na gawa sa mabibigat na kahoy, bilang paniguro na hindi sila basta-basta papasukin ng mga mananakop o tulisan.

Bukas ang ilang parte ng walled village na ito sa mga bisita, para ipakita kung paaano namuhay ang mga miyembro ng pamilya Tang sa ilang daantaong nakalipas. Kitang-kita kung paano sila namuhay ng sama-sama para protektahan ang mga kalahi laban sa mga masasamang elemento.

Madali lang marating ang walled village. Sumakay lang sa Ma On Shan MTR Line at bumaba sa Che Kung Mui station, bago lumabas sa Exit B. Tahakin ang daan patungo sa Shan Ha Wai village, at pagkatapos ng ilang minutong paglalakad lang ay tatambad na ang sinadyang lugar.

Sa mga mahilig mag selfie at humanap ng bagong lugar na papasyalan, subukang dayuhin ang Shan Ha Wai Village para magkaroon ng kakaibang tanawin sa iyong mga litrato. Malay mo, baka rin pagtingin mo sa iyon mga kuha ay makita mong nakasama mo ang multo ng isa sa mga ninuno ng pamilya Tsang.

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